The third fashion week of the season and Milan did not disappoint with household names such as Versace, Giorgio Armani and Gucci gracing the schedule to present their autumn/winter 2022 collections. Although the programme remained much heavier compared to the previous two locations, Milan continued the hybrid trend of both in-person and digital presentations, with Dolce & Gabbana even merging their physical and NFT collection into one show. Here are some of Kindred.’s favourite shows from Milan Fashion Week.
Bottega Veneta – Simple Luxury
Teased in the days leading up to the show, Bottega Veneta used its signature hue to allow consumers to view exclusive content via green screen technology to market the highly anticipated debut of Matthieu Blazy as the new Creative Director. The AW22 collection, inspired by the brand’s roots as a leather goods company and bag specialist, looked at the idea of movement and journey. Opening with a look of a white tank and leather trousers printed to look like jeans and accessorised with a signature woven Bottega bag slung over the model’s shoulder, Blazy’s collection elevated simple outfits to a luxury level. Featuring lots of leather tailoring, knitted patchwork zip-ups and a series of semi-sheer minidresses with matching evening gloves, the designer worked the brand’s famous woven technique throughout the collection with bags, skirts, and thigh-high boots, which accompanied almost every look.
Diesel – Redesigned Denim
In what can only be described as Milan Fashion Week’s most memorable set, Diesel’s runway presentation took place amidst giant inflatable figures which lay across the floor of the venue in sultry positions, showing off low-waisted denim looks and visible thongs. Designed by Niklas Bildstein Zaar, who previously collaborated with Kanye on Donda, the set complimented Creative Director Glenn Martens’ Y2K inspired AW22 collection perfectly. Featuring redesigned denim pieces from patchwork trousers and zip-front bustiers to floor-length fur-like coats and full-leg boots, alongside worn leather jackets, popcorn tulle dresses and a series of colourful co-ord looks with models covered head-to-toe in matching glitter paint, Diesel presented a dramatic take on modern Y2K. But the most talked-about item of the brand’s AW22 collection was the barely-there mini-belts. Described by many as the new Miu Miu super miniskirt, Diesel’s contribution to the 2022 trend included a collection of low waisted, super short, leather and denim miniskirts fastened across models' hips like belts.
Gucci - Exquisite Gucci
Milan Fashion Week saw the reveal of the highly anticipated Gucci x Adidas collaboration. Inspired by the power of clothes to reflect a person’s identity, Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele, who made his debut with the brand in 2015, focused heavily on tailoring for his AW22 collection. With Gucci’s GG monogram, and Adidas’ three-stripes and trefoil emblem atop hats, gloves, and shoes, the designer focused first on the collection at hand and second on the motifs of the two brands in a subtle and effortless merging of luxury and sportswear. The collection also featured Michele’s favoured seventies silhouette suits baring the Adidas three stripes, faux-fur-trimmed coats and capes and five sporty dress looks including the final look of the presentation: a bridal style turtleneck gown and veil, layered with a corset top featuring both Gucci’s signature print and Adidas’ three strips. Attended by Rihanna who wore dragon print trousers and a purple fur jacket, showing off her baby bump and her partner A$AP Rocky who accessorised with a Gucci suitcase and orange Gucci x Adidas gloves, the two stars embolden the luxury meets sportswear theme of the collaboration.
Blumarine – All Grown Up
A staple brand for noughties fashion fans, Blumarine’s AW22 collection took a turn from the dusty pink ultra-femme theme of last season. Inspired by Helmut Newton, who shot campaigns for Blumarine during the nineties, designer Nicola Brognano and stylist Lotta Volkova presented a more grown-up collection with black, red and purple dominating the colour scheme and sultrier silhouettes adding an edgy vibe to a previous bubble-gum Barbie aesthetic. The collection featured sternum baring dresses, miniature faux-fur collared cardigans, flower embellishment breasted tops, skin-tight jumpsuits monogrammed with the brand’s B logo and sheer stockings accessorising almost every look. With Lila Moss, daughter of well-known nineties' supermodel Kate Moss, Eva Hertzigová, who previously worked with Blumarine in a 1995 campaign and Chloe Cherry, one of Euphoria’s newest stars who oozes noughties it-girl style, all walking the show Blumarine gave a fresh sophisticated upgrade to their late nineties/Y2K speciality.
Moschino - Old Money Mansion
Known for his extravagant concepts and near avant-garde designs, Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott did not disappoint with his 2001: Space Odyssey set and mansion interior collection. With model sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid walking the runway in a gilt embellished keyhole dress, a bureau shaped dress withdraw handle fastenings and a metallic gold tulle gown, and Adut Akech donning a column gown embroidered to look like a grandfather clock, Scott brought old money aesthetic to life like something out of Beauty and the Beast. Featuring below-the-knee skirts and boxy shouldered jackets decorated with cutlery and tap handles, a tiered tulle gown and chandelier headpiece and a sweetheart neckline dress with “Maid in Italy” inscribed across the torso, Scott made subtle hints to Franco Moschino’s own eclectic designs and accessories throughout the presentation.
Stay tuned for Kindred.'s London Fashion Week Roundup coming 9 March.
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