New York Fashion Week is back. In a return to in-person shows for Autumn/Winter 2022, New York started fashion month off strong with many designers reimagining the ease of WFH style into laid-back glamour, whilst others allowed their creativity to explode into an all-out show of extravagance.
Unfortunately, fashion headliner, Tom Ford, who is chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, was not able to show his collection due to an Omicron outbreak delaying its production. Initially intended to close the week, Ford was not the only big name missing from the semi-annual event, as top brands Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs also remained absent from the schedule because of continued concerns surrounding the pandemic.
Despite this, well-established brands such as Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, and Brandon Maxwell presented their collections alongside newer designers, Elena Velez and Saint Sintra for a strong programme of in-person, digital, and live-streamed shows.
With plenty of collections showcased over the past week, here is a round-up of some of the Kindred.’s favourites.
Michael Kors – Conceal/Reveal
In true form for post-lockdown fashion, Michael Kors’ Conceal/Reveal AW22 collection focused on making every outing an occasion to dress for. In a live-streamed runway show, backed by a performance of Prince’s Raspberry Beret from American artist, Miguel, Kors paid tribute to New York nightlife with sophisticated simplistic designs bridging a pathway between comfort and elegance. Sleek hair and heavy-set makeup elevated the gothic glamour of his collection, with full monochromatic looks in both neutrals and bright colours, clutch coats inspired by Marilyn Monroe, and a series of figure-hugging gowns and tailored jackets portraying his concept of easy style.
Coach – Suburban America
The unlikely combination of Megan Thee Stallion, Tommy Dorfman, Ricky Thompson, and Angus Cloud sat front row at Coach’s AW22 fashion show. A hit on social media, with Euphoria star Cloud getting particular attention for snacking on a packet of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos during the presentation, this choice of young breakout stars as the key front-row attendees complimented Stuart Vevers’ modern take on past American fashion. Presented against the backdrop of a gold-lit suburban American set, Vever’s collection drew from the brand’s previous designs, featuring a selection of baby doll dresses, graphic t-shirts, shearling jackets, and reworked leather, for a vintage feel contrasted by a more modern styling.
Altuzarra – Moby Dick
Often inspired by the books he reads; Joseph Altuzarra’s nautical themed collection told a tale of sailors and mermaids. Gifting the attendees a copy of Herman Melville’s 1851 novel, Moby Dick, Altuzarra’s collection emulated the journey of world travellers and mythical creatures. The beginning of the show featured tailored jackets and shearling collars, later merging into tie-dyed knits with Moroccan motifs before finally ending with a series of sequin embellished gowns, all paired with a wet hair look and fresh-faced makeup. Held in the lobby of the historic Woolworth Building, which boasts a marble interior and glass mosaics, and accompanied by a powerful score that featured conch horn sounds, Altuzarra’s presentation took its audience on an all-immersive mystical journey.
Christian Siriano – Victorian Matrix
Aptly titled Victorian Matrix, Christian Siriano’s AW22 collection boasted classical silhouettes made from futuristic textiles. Featuring figure-hugging latex dresses with matching full-length gloves, denim jumpsuits, bright blue tailored suits, and Victorian hoop skirts, this collection is a thoughtful collaboration between the past and future. Attended by the likes of Drew Barrymore, drag queens Aquaria and Symone, and Instagram famous dog, Tika the Iggy, the show had a fresh feel to it as models walked the runway with attitude with the final two even having a twirl off in their full-bodied skirts to an erupted applause from the audience.
Brandon Maxwell – An Emotional Tribute
Starting his show with a Siri-read recital of his own Wikipedia page, followed by a short film of old family photos, Brandon Maxwell paid tribute to his grandmother with his AW22 collection. Drawing inspiration from his childhood, the show featured wraps, sweaters and quilted coats, paying homage to times when he would wrap and style his siblings in blankets at his grandmother’s home. His combinations of elegant gowns and tops styled with tailored jackets and worn denim jeans fuse the ideas of comfort and glamour together, giving a homey feeling of elegance to each look. Ending his show with an A-line dress printed with flowers painted by his grandfather in honour of his grandmother, he pulled his Pappaw from the front row to walk with him down the runway at the end of the show.
Featuring more fantastic collections, such as Dion Lee, Carolina Herrera, and even a holographic presentation from Maisie Wilen, New York Fashion Week gave us so much to look forwards to at the end of the year.
London Fashion Week will start Friday 18 February 2022.
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